Friday, May 16, 2025

Japanese Porcelain Arita & Imari Ware

Japanese Porcelain: Arita & Imari Ware 有田焼と伊万里焼

Monument for the historic porcelain trade in Imari Harbor.
Monument for the historic porcelain trade in Imari Harbor

Japanese porcelain was all the rage at the European royal courts in the 1700s as well as among rich traders who could afford to compete with the royals in terms of wealth.

Japanese porcelain, that meant highest-grade white pottery, colorfully underglazed with exotic patterns or equally exotic drawings of Asian landscapes and poetic scenes.

Japan had by then become a closed country, a country of mystery. No European royal could even dream of taking a trip there. Only the Dutch had a small trading post in Nagasaki and it was the Dutch who sold the Japanese porcelain to the European courts.

In fact, the fascination of the European courts with East Asian porcelain dated back much earlier, but in the 1600s, the Manchu started their invasion of Ming Dynasty China, leading to much turmoil and interrupting trade with the famed Chinese pottery.

Looking for an alternative to the treasured Chinese porcelain, the European royals discovered Japanese porcelain. It didn't have the tradition of going back in history a 1000 years or more as the Chinese pieces did but it appeared to come from a culture even more refined.

From the legendary Zipangu, a country about which Marco Polo had written some fabled hearsay.

Portuguese missionaries had their days in Japan in the 1500s but their accounts most likely didn't matter much to the European royals.

Who wants to hear about the struggles of Catholic monks if you can just hold a precious piece of fine porcelain in your hand and dream about its exotic origins?

Arita and Imari

Japanese porcelain was to a large part manufactured in the town of Arita, in today's Saga Prefecture, in north-west Kyushu, just a bit south of Fukuoka.

Arita was an inland town, however, and the ware was shipped through the port of Imari to Nagasaki from where the Dutch conducted their international trade.

Imari ware became the trade name of the porcelain even though most of it was manufactured in Arita.

Bridge at the entrance to Okawachiyama.
Bridge at the entrance to Okawachiyama

Okawachiyama Kilns in Imari

Imari did and still does however also have its own kilns producing high quality porcelain. Those are the kilns in Okawachiyama, a narrow valley close to a rich kaolin depot in the mountains just outside the town of Imari.

Today, the Okawachiyama Kilns are a major tourist attraction. People stroll the narrow lanes between the kilns, porcelain lovers hunt for bargains.

At the local porcelain shops, both decorative pieces and high-grade household wares are sold. On the latter, great discounts can be had if you choose some pieces with minor faults only a porcelain master would spot.

Street in Okawachiyama.
Street in Okawachiyama

If you arrive on an off-season day with not many other visitors around, you may be able to strike up a conversation with some of the porcelain masters, them going with you through their kilns and explaining the traditional production process.

That production process has undergone very little changes since the days of European royalty as major customers.

Porcelain kiln in Okawachiyama.
Porcelain kiln in Okawachiyama

Origins of Arita and Imari Ware

The origins of Arita and Imari wares are debated among historians. There is no doubt that the porcelain making techniques came to the area from the Korean peninsula. But how exactly?

The most commonly told story is that Lord Naoshige Nabeshima (1537-1619), the local ruler of Hizen Province, encompassing what are now Saga and Nagasaki Prefectures, participated in Hideyoshi Toyotomi's Imjin War (1592 - 1598). Hideyoshi had just about unified Japan and wanted now to expand his rule over the Korean peninsula. That attempt failed but Japan gained valuable cultural expertise as a result of that war.

Lord Nabeshima is said to have actively recruited Korean potters during his time in Korea and resettled them in his home domain.

One of them, a certain Yi Sam Pyong, is said to have stumbled over a kaolin deposit near Arita. Pure white kaolin is the base material for porcelain.

Starting in the late 19th century, Yi Sam Pyong became hailed as the legendary father of Japanese porcelain.

More recent research shows that Yi Sam Pyong did exist but most likely wasn't a trained potter and had no influence on the development of Japanese porcelain.

Ceramic tiles depicting historic Okawachiyama.
Ceramic tiles depicting historic Okawachiyama

Another theory has it that small scale local rulers recruited Korean potters well before the Imjin War and that the kaolin deposits were discovered when those rulers prospected for possible gold deposits in their areas.

Be that as it may. What's documented is that Korean potters were in the area prior to the year 1600 and that Lord Nabeshima eventually became their sponsor and protector. That's why the Arita and Imari porcelain is also known as Nabeshima ware.

It took until about the year 1650 for those potters to develop techniques that allowed them to produce high-class translucent white porcelain with underglaze decorations.

Underglaze

Underglaze decoration means that the ink of the drawing or pattern is applied directly to the raw porcelain. After finishing the drawing, the whole piece is covered with transparent ceramic glaze and sent into the kiln for high-temperature firing.

The decoration becomes thus a deeply embedded part of the porcelain. The even application of the ceramic glaze provides a uniform sheen.

Because of the intense heat of the firing, very few colors could be used. Blue was traditionally the most common. Especially in Arita, however, the use of bright red became popular, making for outstandingly colorful pieces.

Arita and Imari Ware Today

In Japan today, the old European classification of all porcelain from the area as Imari ware has long been discarded. Arita ware is labeled as Arita ware and still a highly prized porcelain.

Arita ware tea set.
Arita ware tea set

It's not in the domain of the royals anymore, though. Newly manufactured Arita ware can be found in most Japanese households caring about the quality of their kitchen goods.

That's partly due to the decision of luxury furikake tsukudani rice topping maker Kinshobai to offer some of their product in beautifully styled Arita ware containers.

Kinshobai rice topping in Arita ware bowl.
Kinshobai rice topping in Arita ware bowl

The Imari ware of the Okawachiyama kilns is much rarer to find on the general market. Your best bet would be to include a trip to Okawachiyama on your next trip to Japan - especially if you plan to hunt for a bargain available only locally.

You can also order a variety of Arita and Imari ware kitchen goods for your home from Goods from Japan.

Imari porcelain rice bowls produced at the Okawachiyama kilns.
 Imari porcelain rice bowls produced at the Okawachiyama kilns

Buy Arita Ware from Japan

Goods from Japan offers a variety of Japanese porcelain and pottery.

Purchase a range of Japanese ceramics from GoodsFromJapan.

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Examples of Arita ware.
Examples of Arita ware

© GoodsFromJapan.com

Tuesday, April 29, 2025

Koinobori & Children's Day Japan

Koinobori & Children's Day 鯉のぼり

Jake Davies

Towards the end of April, large groups of koinobori carp streamers start appearing in readiness for Children's Day on May 5th.
Towards the end of April, large groups of koinobori carp streamers start appearing in readiness for Children's Day on May 5th

May 5th in Japan is Kodomo no Hi, Children's Day when the Japanese celebrate their children, and the most visible sign of the approach of Children's Day is the appearance from mid-April onward of the colorful windsocks known as Carp Streamers or Koinobori.

Suspended across a river is one of the more dramatic locations to see koinobori.
Suspended across a river is one of the more dramatic locations to see koinobori

Children's Day in Japan

Children's Day is the last of four National Holidays that fall at the end of April and early May that collectively are known as Golden Week, and with many companies giving their employees 7 to 10 days off, Golden Week has become the second biggest holiday and vacation time in Japan after the New Year holidays.

Children's Day, the last of the Golden Week National Holiday days was not established until 1948. Prior to that it was known as Tango no sekku, commonly called Boy's Day, and it was in that form that the association with koinobori began.

Colorful koinobori carp streamers celebrate Children's Day.
Colorful koinobori carp streamers celebrate Children's Day

Chinese Influence

Ancient Japan adopted the calendrical and numerological system from China, In this system specific dates were laden with symbolic meaning, and the 5th day of the 5th month was a seasonal court festival, along with the 1st day of the 1st month, Oshogatsu, New Year, 3rd day of the 3rd month, Hina Matsuri, the Doll Festival, 7th day of the 7th month, Tanabata, and the 9th day of the 9th month, Kiku Matsuri.

These festivals originated in rites of protection against evil, and among the common people these days took on their own meanings, with notably Hina Matsuri being celebrated as Girl's Day, and Tango no sekku as Boy's Day, and it was in this form that May 5th became associated with koinobori.

On May 5th families would celebrate their male children, putting up displays of Kintaro dolls, based on a legendary Heian Period samurai, Sakata no Kintoki, as well as Kabuto, samurai helmets and sometimes whole miniature suits of samurai armor. In the Edo Period banners bearing the image of carp were added to the displays.

Japanese koi kept in the canals of Tsuwano Castle town where they were used for an emergency food source.
Japanese koi kept in the canals of Tsuwano Castle town where they were used as an emergency food source

Carp

The carp is native to the waterways of Japan and was a prized source of food. In the former castle town of Tsuwano in Shimane, the drainage canals of the town were stocked with carp for use as an emergency food in case of siege, and today visitors can still see them.

Most people however, will think of the ornamental,  multi-colored, koi that are a relatively recent development but which are now a common feature not just of traditional Japanese gardens but garden ponds throughout the world.

Symbolism

In Japan the koi has come to represent strength, courage, endurance, perseverance, and health, and these attributes gave been derived from a well known, ancient Chinese tale of a golden carp that swam upstream of the Yellow River, eventually swimming up a waterfall and being reincarnated as a dragon.

The qualities attributed to the koi were those most valued by the samurai and wished for for their sons.

One theory how the koi became associated with Boy's Day was that when the Shogun had a son, the news was announced by raising carp flags.

Koinobori flying at a mountain park.
Koinobori flying at a mountain park

Displaying koinobori

The traditional way of displaying the koinobori was at the top of a tall bamboo pole. At the top would be the largest, black-coloured koinobori representing the father of the family fukinagashi (吹き流し).

Followed by a red koinobori for the eldest son of the family, followed by decreasingly sized ones in blue, green, purple, and orange, for any younger sons.

When Boy's Day switched to Children's Day the symbolism changed somewhat with the second, red, Koinobori coming to represent the mother, and often pink being used instead of red.

The other colors came to represent both sons and daughters. In fact, more and more these traditional meanings have been discarded and some families simply fly koi representing just the children of the family who are still at home.

The traditional method of displaying koinobori, now found mostly only in the countryside, is atop a tall bamboo pole.
The traditional method of displaying koinobori, now found mostly only in the countryside, is atop a tall bamboo pole

Nowadays the most common way to see koinobori is not in the single displays put up by families, but in large public and civic situations.

A very popular site is strung across a river, where when the wind blows it most looks like carp swimming against the current. Other popular spots include parks, strung between buildings, and increasingly at shopping malls and retail parks.

Dozens of large koinobori across the Gonokawa River in Shimane.
Dozens of large koinobori across the Gonokawa River in Shimane

Purchase a Range of Koinobori from Japan

Purchase a selection of koinobori carp streamers from GoodsFromJapan

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Friday, April 04, 2025

Iconic Japanese Chocolates

Japanese Chocolates 日本のチョコレート

Japanese chocolates.
Japanese chocolates

Today, Japan is a major producer of chocolate, the varieties on offer are endless and deeply ingrained in popular culture.

On Valentine's Day, girls traditionally present chocolates to their favored boy, on White Day (March 14th) boys reciprocate with their own chocolate gifts to the respective girl.

There are chocolates that students present to each other before exams, often inscribed with personal well-wishing messages. Manufacturers adapted quickly to that custom and leave blank spaces on the packages for exactly that purpose.

Add to that an abundance of imported chocolates, mainly Belgian and Swiss, and Japan becomes a chocolate wonderland.

Foreign visitors took notice. Soon, some of the most original Japanese chocolates became favorites in the West as well. Hard to find favorites, that is. Typically, those craving the treats need to rely on friends visiting Japan to buy them a few packages, carrying them back home in their suitcases.

Before going into the specifics on the most iconic Japanese chocolates, both in Japan and oversees, let's have a brief look at the history of Japanese chocolate.

Taichiro Morinaga

Taichiro Morinaga (1865-1937) is widely credited as the pioneering entrepreneur popularizing chocolate in Japan.

Morinaga, a native of what is now Saga Prefecture in Kyushu, moved to Yokohama in his youth and tried his hands at various businesses. They all failed and with no prospects left, Morinaga moved to San Francisco at age 23, opening a hardware store in the city. At that time, Morinaga discovered American milk candy and he fell in love with the sweet immediately. Not being able to obtain a real apprenticeship at an American candy manufacturing company, Morinaga joined one such company as janitor. Moving slowly into actual candy manufacturing work, Morinaga stayed with the company for 11 years.

By then feeling confident about producing his own candies in Japan, Morinaga moved back and opened his first candy shop in Akasaka, Tokyo in 1899.

The milk candy Morinaga's small enterprise produced became very popular among the families of Western diplomats and expatriates but also caught on with the tastes of local Japanese.

The step up to chocolate production was still risky. At the time in Japan, chocolate had the reputation of being unpleasantly bitter. Something Western sailors would eat to keep up their strength on their long journeys to Yokohama.

To introduce his sweet milk chocolate, Morinaga had to start and operate his own dairy farm as the milk supply in Japan was still insufficient for any larger milk-based industrial production.

In 1918, Morinaga's company was the first to mass-produce sweet milk chocolate in Japan. It immediately became very popular, leading the way to Morinaga & Company becoming one of the largest sweets producers in Japan, branching out into biscuits, jellies, cocoa drinks and many other products.

Visit any Japanese supermarket or convenience store and you will find lots of Morinaga products all over the shelves.

The Morinaga Company laid the groundwork, the products of the company are still reliable essential items.

The job of tuning taste levels a further notch up however was left to Morinaga's immediate competitors. The iconic products discussed below are made by large manufacturers closely following Morinaga's footsteps but getting vastly more innovative in the long run.

Meltykiss on a supermarket shelf.
Meltykiss on a supermarket shelf

Meiji Meltykiss

Chocolate maker Meiji started out in 1916 as Tokyo Confectionary Co., handling imported Western confectionaries and dairy products. Soon, Meiji developed its own dairy and sweets products, introducing Meiji Milk Chocolate in 1926. The chocolate became a huge success with Japanese customers, it is still sold today in every Japanese supermarket in a wrapper almost identical to the original packaging from 1926.

Fast forward to the year 1992. In that year Meiji introduced Meltykiss, "a seasonal chocolate product … to represent the tranquility of winter by creating chocolate as smooth as snow," as the company website states in corporate advertising poetry.

Milk chocolate Meltykiss.
Milk chocolate Meltykiss

Meltykiss is indeed a delicious treat. Originally introduced as soft cubes of milk chocolate, by now versions with dark chocolate, strawberry, matcha and other flavors are also available.

Meltykiss is only available in winter "because the distinct, smooth textures of the chocolate treat only come out when stored at temperatures lower than 23°C." (Quote from the company website again).

Buy a 5-pack set of Meltykiss from GoodsFromJapan

Kinoko no Yama and Takenoko no Sato mix packs on a supermarket shelf.
Kinoko no Yama and Takenoko no Sato mix packs on a supermarket shelf

Meiji Kinoko no Yama & Takenoko no Sato

In 1975, Meiji introduced Kinoko no Yama (Mushroom Mountain) chocolate cookies. As the name promises, those cookies are shaped like small mushrooms. Though the fun-looking packages appear to be aimed at children, those cookies soon became also a favorite among many adults. They go very well will a cup of strong coffee.

In 1979, Meiji followed up with the Takenoko no Sato (Bamboo Sprouts Hometown) chocolate cookies. Those are shaped like bamboo sprouts. More importantly, eggs and almonds were added to the cookie dough. Enhancing the taste on one hand but making them off-limits to people with respective allergies.

Buy an 8-bag Kinoko no Yama and Takenoko no Sato Mix Pack

Pocky Sticks on a shelf.
Pocky Sticks on a shelf

Glico Pocky Sticks

Closely following up on the success of the Morinaga and Meiji confectionary companies, Riichi Ezaki (1882-1980) formed the Ezaki Glico Company in 1922 in Osaka. Confectionaries, dairy products and processed foods have been the focus of the company ever since. Glico is one of the big players in this field in Japan.

Among internation chocolate lovers, however, Glico is most famous for its Pocky Sticks, chocolate-coated biscuit sticks, introduced in 1966.

Glico soon expanded the range of the flavors. Today, Pocky Sticks are available with strawberry chocolate, matcha flavored chocolate, almond chocolate and many other variations.

Variations of Pocky Sticks.
Variations of Pocky Sticks

While the classic chocolate sticks in the red package are always available, the other variations are often sold only seasonally. Winter tends to be the best time to find a large variety of Pocky Sticks on Japanese supermarket shelves.

Buy classic Pocky

KitKat.
Kit Kat

Nestle Kit Kat

Kit Kat was first launched by Roundtree's of York, England as a working man's chocolate wafer in 1935. "Have a break… have a Kit Kat", the famous advertising slogan from 1958, sums up those early days of Kit Kat. Roundtree's introduced Kit Kat to Japan in 1973 as a very British treat.

In 1988, Swiss food conglomerate Nestlé acquired Roundtree's and with it the Japanese Kit Kat franchise.

It took until about the year 2000 but then Nestlé Japan handed Kit Kat development and marketing to a creative Japanese team.

The term 'creative' cannot be overstated here. After some initial trials with different Kit Kat flavors, the team went simply wild.

While new flavors like strawberry and matcha have by now become standards available in every supermarket, the Japanese team went much further.

A great variety of seasonal products were introduced, sometimes lasting only one single season. Famous pastry chefs were hired to work on those flavors, developing Kit Kat wafer bars in a multitude of shapes and tastes only sold in the most high-end shops in the most up-scale neighborhoods. Like, say, Tokyo's Ginza.

In addition, regional Kit Kat flavors are marketed as omiyage gifts. Japanese traveling somewhere like to bring souvenirs, often foods, back to their friends and family.

So, Kit Kat relating to the typical flavors a certain region is associated with are sold in local souvenir shops alongside the actual products from the respective region. Like sweet potato in Okinawa, wasabi in Shizuoka, yama imo (Japanese mountain yam) in Kyushu or salty plum in Yamanashi.

In the process, all connections to the old British image of Kit Kat were expunged. Kit Kat became 100% Japanese despite the Nestlé logo printed on every package.

Extra Rich Dark Green Tea KitKat 10-Pack

Matcha Kit Kat (left) and classic Kit Kat.
Matcha Kit Kat (left) and classic Kit Kat

Buy Iconic Chocolates from Japan

Good luck with your Kit Kat hunting in Japan! The Don Quijote megastore in Shibuya, Tokyo is said to offer the greatest variety on Kit Kat products anywhere in the country… but for the regional flavors you still have to travel to the various regions.

The most common Kit Kat products, as well as various varieties of the other chocolates described above can easily be ordered here at Goods from Japan.

Goods from Japan offers a variety of Japanese foodstuffs and ingredients.

Purchase a range of Japanese food and chocolates from GoodsFromJapan.

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by Johannes Schonherr

© GoodsFromJapan.com

Thursday, April 03, 2025

The Samurai Shusaku Endo

Japan Book Review: The Samurai

The Samurai

by Endo Shusaku

ISBN: 978-1-80533-03-87
Pushkin Press, 1980
368 pp; paperback

Set in the same 1600s era as his more famous book Silence, author Endo Shusaku again weaves a riveting story based on historical people and events. Silence is the more famous of the two stories Endo wrote about Japan's "Christian Century" as it was later turned into a renowned movie by Martin Scorsese.

The Samurai by Shusaku Endo.
The Samurai

This story focuses on two main characters. One is a low-ranking rural warrior, samurai Rokuemon Hasekura, and the other is Franciscan friar Father Velasco, who has spent some years proselytizing in Japan. Hasekura, the eponymous samurai who is docile and duty-bound, is plucked out of obscurity to travel to Nueva Espana (Mexico) to try to open trade with Mexico. He hopes that a successful mission will help his clan get back their ancestral lands which they lost while fighting on the losing side of a recent war. Velasco, who is overly impressed with his own piety, will do anything to help Japan become a Christian nation, and to be named bishop of Japan by the Pope. Yes, his motives are sometimes found to be less than pure.

The reader definitely doesn't have to be a follower of religious history, or really even Japanese history, to be captured by the story. Those that are such followers, might find the real-life complications between the Jesuit and the Franciscan Catholics interesting…and sad.

The samurai and Velasco, who is fluent in Japanese, are the first to set sail from Japan using Japan's untested shipbuilding capability. Both survive the trip, but others do not. Mexico fails to give either Hasekura or Velasco what they want, and their multi-year voyage continues.

As with most of his other books, Endo's writing engrosses the reader with its characters, whether those characters are sympathetic characters or not. The reader must get used to Endo switching between first- and third-person narratives, but will get the hang of it eventually.

There is a helpful and quite interesting seven-page postscript written by Van C. Gessel (the translator of the book from the original Japanese), which discusses how close Endo's characters are to real-life individuals. Don't pass over the postscript.

After a bit of a slow start, readers will be moved by the dilemmas, decisions and disappointments that the main characters (and pretty much all of the auxiliary characters) must deal with. The reader could easily feel sorry for perhaps every character in the book, but life was not easy for many people in 1600s Japan as it was transitioning into the Tokugawa shogunate.

While moving constantly between historical adventure, travel narrative, political drama and varying interpretations of faith, The Samurai is challenging, thought provoking and deep.

Review by Marshall Hughes, author of Rural Reflections.

Buy this book from Amazon USA | UK | Japan

Looking to buy Japanese things directly from Japan? GoodsFromJapan is here to help.

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Sunday, March 09, 2025

How to Order a Custom Happi Coat from Japan

Custom Happi For 2025

Custom happi 2025.

Here is a selection of custom happi coats produced for clients so far in 2025.

Pricing depends on

1) the number of colors

2) the complexity of design

3) the number of coats

4) sizes (an idea of sizing can be found here for our standard blue happi)

5) note: we cannot accept copyrighted designs from Japanese anime and manga (the design must be original)

Happi coat from Japan.

Making the first coat is always the most expensive step and the per unit cost drops with the number of coats made.

Usually it takes between 4-6 weeks to complete the order. Shipping is by EMS or DHL and trackable. If you have your own DHL account, please let us know.

Designs should be sent in Adobe Illustrator format please with the colors in DIC if possible sakawa.jp/pdf/dic.pdf

Happi coat 2025.

We also require your delivery address and telephone number to calculate shipping as well as your deadline.

Our clients have included major companies, air sea rescue in Japan, schools as well as individual customers.

Please contact us for a custom happi quote and further details.

Original design.

Read more about Japan's favorite festival wear

2020 Custom Happi

2018 Custom Happi

Order your happi coat from Japan.
Order your happi coat from Japan.

© GoodsFromJapan.com

Wednesday, February 26, 2025

Japan Book Review Rural Reflections

Japan Book Review: Rural Reflections: What Provincial Life in Japan Taught Me in 1990-2001

Rural Reflections: What Provincial Life in Japan Taught Me in 1990-2001

by Marshall Hughes

ISBN: 979-8-9925344-1-2
McNay-Garwood Publishing, Tokyo, 2025
233 pp; paperback

Marshall Hughes taught English at Japanese public schools for more than 25 years as well as at educational institutions in South Korea, China and Cambodia. Hughes has a background in professional sports journalism and he has been publishing a large number of book reviews in various online publications including the legendary Japan Visitor as well as currently on the Goods from Japan site - the site on which you are reading right now.

Hughes grew up in the Bay Area, California and spent a good part of the 1980s in Hawaii, working as sports journalist.

Japan Book Review Rural Reflections.
Rural Reflections: What Provincial Life in Japan Taught Me in 1990-2001

Feeling restless after too many years playing golf on a public court at his favorite Hawaiian beach, Hughes applied at the JET Programme (Japan Exchange and Teaching Programme), looking for new experiences across the Pacific.

Hughes was hired for his first stint as JET Assistance Language Teacher (ALT) in 1990.

JET ALTs are often placed in quite rural areas and that's exactly where Hughes was sent. He started out in a small town named Yaita in Tochigi Prefecture, a long ride on local trains north of Tokyo.

In Rural Reflections, the recently retired Hughes details the first 11 years of his living and teaching in the Japanese countryside.

After his initial year in Yaita, Hughes continued his work at middle and high schools in a number of small towns in Ibaraki Prefecture. All those towns, including Yaita are still far off the tourist path today. Back in the 1990s, they were absolute backwaters. Surrounded by large rice paddies and with some unremarkable hills beyond them, those towns offered little attractions.

Tokyo fashion items of the time like T-Shirts featuring ridiculously nonsensical English slogans printed on their front certainly made it to those small towns. But that was about it in terms of modern influences.

Hughes' job as Assistant Language Teacher consisted of supporting Japanese English language teachers with their work. Those Japanese teachers had in most cases a rather poor command of English. Hughes's job was to introduce some real native English to the classroom.

His book details how that worked out in practice in rural Japan. In anecdotical style, Hughes recounts a great number of experiences in that field, some very funny, some rather sad.

Hughes' life as assistant teacher in the countryside was rarely exciting. In the book, he does however provide a great deal of interesting observations of how his life, his school work, his relations to the Japanese teachers, to his students etc. played out.

From the banality of school board meetings often led by clueless officials to the large number of rather awkward / strange / boneheaded Japanese teachers he had to work with to both talented and rebellious students, the book provides a lot of anecdotes that bring those years in the Japanese boondocks vividly back to life.

Hughes is clearly very fond of his memories of those days. Some of those memories may have actually been rather troublesome in the day, like him getting excluded from various school ceremonies simply because as a foreigner he was thought not to fit into the picture by some Japanese officials.

With the distance of the years, Hughes more or less amusingly notes those incidents as peculiarities of Japanese rural life back in the 1990s.

By now, even the tiniest towns in the Japanese countryside try to snatch their slice of pie off the booming foreign tourist industry. There will always be some sort of attraction... the ruins of an old samurai castle or something.

But what actually living in such a town as a foreigner would be like, those e-bike tours arranged by the local tourism promotion office don't reveal.

Marshall Hughes' book fills you in on that. Though he talks about the 1990s, many things may not have changed much since then. Except that everyone is staring at his smartphone now, even in the deepest of the boondocks.

Review by Johannes Schonherr.

Buy this book from Amazon USA | UK | Japan

Looking to buy Japanese things directly from Japan? GoodsFromJapan is here to help.

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Wednesday, February 05, 2025

Kochi Fair at Mitsuwa Market

Kochi Fair at Mitsuwa Market

Kochi Fair at Mitsuwa Market.

I live in Southern California and have always been surrounded by a variety of grocery stores and fresh produce. There are three Japanese grocers over in the city of Costa Mesa:  Seiya, Marukai, and Mitsuwa Market, which has been there the longest. Last weekend my daughter and I drove to Mitsuwa for their Kochi Fair.

Products from Kochi on sale.

We have always had a particular fondness for Kochi. The employees were surprised when we said we had visited twice and asked us what made us travel there. I mentioned the Taiga Drama "Komyo ga Tsuji" and the travelogue shown at the end of each episode. Then one employee burst out with "Ryomaden!" Yes, that one too! We saw all sites connected to Ryoma and visited the beautiful beach at Katsurahama.

Yuzu onion dressing.

We sampled several products with yuzu as the primary ingredient. We already knew we were going to buy a lot, but we enjoyed tasting the samples. It's funny, in the US presently, yuzu is getting a big blow up. Yuzu is being promoted for all sorts of reasons. Even as a fruit to grow and eat!  Many years ago I learned that it's not really that kind of fruit - but adding it to foods was something special. And it is. I hope the people who try to cultivate the tree will figure that out.

Daikon radish.

When we had finished looking at the Kochi Fair we entered the grocery section of Mitsuwa and shopped a little. It has been remodeled in the last few years and it carries a very generous supply of Japanese foods and goods. It's a nice, interesting, and fun place to shop. I imagine it's an oasis for anyone missing Japan.

Standing in line.

We were ready for lunch and stood in line at Sanukiseimen for a freshly prepared dish of udon. I had beef udon and my daughter had beef curry udon. We bought a slice of tempura pumpkin to share. It had been a long time since we'd eaten here and it was totally worth it. Afterward we chose soft ice cream with strawberry sauce from the sweets shop. A rarity in our everyday life for sure.

Soft ice cream with strawberry sauce.

Next I picked up the current issue of my magazine subscription to Liniere from Maido, and then we visited the gashapon shop to crank out a kitty. It was the gray one.

We had a great time and it made me look forward to our trip in May. And as we headed to the car I beckoned to a waiting truck that we were leaving. They waited patiently as I backed out and left a much sought after space.

Gashopon.

What prefecture will Mitsuwa Costa Mesa celebrate next? We will be happy with whatever choice they make.

Address: Mitsuwa Market, 665 Paularino Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Text & Photos by Diane

Purchase things from Japan direct from GoodsFromJapan

Gashopon.

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Furikake Tsukudani Rice Topping Kinshobai

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© GoodsFromJapan

Friday, January 17, 2025

Furikake Tsukudani Rice Topping Kinshobai

Furikake Tsukudani Rice Topping Kinshobai 錦松梅

The term tsukudani encompasses a wide range of side dishes and rice toppings that have one thing in common: the ingredients are all prepared by simmering or boiling in soy sauce and mirin. Mirin is a Japanese "rice wine" (that is, an alcoholic liquid made by fermenting rice) with a low alcohol and high sugar content. Mirin is widely used in Japanese cooking.

The various types of tsukudani are then defined by their ingredients. The most common range from kombu (kelp) to nori and other seaweed to small fish like smelt and sand lance to small clams to various types of shredded vegetables to thinly sliced beef. There is even tsukudani made of grasshoppers. Yes, grasshoppers can be absolutely delicious and make for a crispy tsukudani.

The taste of the various tsukudani depends on the source materials used but they are all more or less sweet and spicy.

Kinshobai.
Kinshobai

Tsukudani made of larger items like sand lance or smelt fish are eaten as a side dish to traditional Japanese meals or served as part of a bento box. They are also an integral part of Osechi-ryori, the traditional Japanese New Year's meals.

Tsukudani made of smaller or shredded materials however are most commonly used as rice toppings. Placed on top of a full bowl of rice, they give the rice a strong additional flavor. Those rice toppings are called furikake in Japanese.

The simmering or boiling of the source materials in soy sauce and mirin preserves the tsukudani. They stay good for months.

Traditional tsukudani store in Yanaka, Tokyo.
Traditional tsukudani store in Yanaka, Tokyo

History of Tsukudani

There are a number of theories on the history of tsukudani. The most prevailing is this one…

In the early days of the Edo Period (1603 - 1868), Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu told master fisherman Magoemon Mori to invite skilled fishermen to live in the newly reclaimed estuaries at the mouth of the Sumida Rider in Edo (now Tokyo). Mori invited fisher folks from Tsukuda Village in Osaka. Those fishermen moved to an island close to the Edo shore which soon became known as Tsukudajima (Tsukuda Island). They brought with them the custom of cooking small fish in salt and soy sauce for preservation as a reliable food resource in times of bad weather and for longer fishing trips.

They sold their surplus of preserved little fish on the Edo markets where they became known as Tsukudani - named after Tsukuda Island.

The preserved fish became very popular and soon, other folks started experimenting. Replacing the salt with mirin, using other ingredients. People took those tsukudani as convenient travel food to regions all over Japan where the locals started to get their own ideas on tsukudani, using their local ingredients. Thus, the wide variety of tsukudani today.

The best places to find and buy tsukudani are the traditional tsukudani shops in historical neighborhoods like in Tokyo's Yanaka, close to Nippori and not far from Ueno.

Kinshobai main store, Yotsuya, Tokyo.
Kinshobai main store, Yotsuya, Tokyo

Kinshobai

As varied and tasty as tsukudani are, they have always been a food eaten by everyone - from to the poor to the rich, from the peasant to the shogun, they all liked their basic tsukudani.

In 1932, the Kinshobai Company in Yotsuya, Tokyo set out to introduce their own brand of furikake tsukudani (rice topping tsukudani), aiming to 'carry the flavor of the Edo Period to the present day' (as stated on the company website).

The ingredients of Kinshobai aren't in any way fancy or unusual for a tsukudani. It's the fine-tuned mix of those ingredients that sets Kinshobai apart from common tsukudani.

The ingredients used are soy sauce (produced in-house), dried bonito flakes, sugar, white sesame seeds, kelp (kombu), wood ear mushrooms, pine nuts, shiitake mushrooms, plus a variety of seasonings.

Kinshobai is delicious as rice topping, it can however also be eaten on cold tofu, inside tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelettes) and even as a spread on bread.

Bowl of kinshobai.
Bowl of kinshobai

How Kinshobai Began

In the early 1900s, a gourmet named Kyokuo, descendant of the old Kakegawa samurai clan, travelled the country, searching out the best foods in all the different regions.

Kyokuo had been brought up eating plain rice with dried bonito flakes on top for his school lunch every day. He hated the banality and boredom of that lunch and thought of a way to create a somewhat simple but refined and tasty rice topping that he himself would really enjoy.

He eventually came up with a mix of ingredients and spices that he named Kinshobai after his two favored bonsai trees.

The name Kinshobai (錦松梅) is a combination of Nishiki Matsu 錦松 (a highly prized bonsai tree based on a mutant species of black pine only found along the coast near Takamatsu City, Shikoku) and Ume 梅, the Japanese apricot whose trees are very popular as bonsai.

The wonders of Japanese kanji pronunciation then turn the combined names Nishiki Matsu and Ume into Kinshobai.

Kinshobai rice topping in Arita ware bowl.
Kinshobai rice topping in Arita ware bowl

Kyokuo never intended to make Kinshobai a business. He enjoyed his creation with his family. His wife was a master of ikebana (traditional flower arrangement), so he also shared his Kinshobai with her disciples. After he presented the wedding party of a grand company president with his Kinshobai, the taste, aroma and texture of his creation became so popular that he eventually could be persuaded to produce Kinshobai for a larger public.

In 1932, Kyokuo started the Kinshobai Company in the Yotsuya neighborhood of Tokyo where it still resides.

The company still sells only one product - the original Kinshobai furikake tsukudani. Coming, if you wish, in quite luxurious Arita porcelain.

Kinshobai offered in Spring season Arita porcelain bowl.
Kinshobai offered in Spring season Arita porcelain bowl

Luxury Gourmet Segment

Its unique aroma and taste aside, what sets Kinshobai apart from common tsukudani is the company's marketing. Besides its main store in Yotsuya, Tokyo the company operates a network of shops all over Japan. You find a Kinshobai shop in almost every prefecture, always placed inside the most prestigious department stores.

There, Kinshobai is sold in its most basic form, of course, in the typical 60 gram package.

But also on offer and most prominent are the combinations of Kinshobai and Arita ware porcelain. Kinshobai should be kept in a dry place away from direct sun light. Nothing would serve this purpose better than a colorful, hand-painted container made by the traditional kilns of Arita, Saga Prefecture. Arita ware is one of the finest and most famous porcelains made in Japan.

Many customers buy the combination Kinshobai / Arita ware as a gift to be presented at special occasions. What could be more refined and traditional Japanese than "the flavor of Edo" in one of the country's best porcelains? A gift worthy an Edo nobleman with excellent taste.

You can buy Kinshobai in basic packs as well as in a number of Arita ware porcelain containers directly from Goods From Japan.

Store the Kinshobai at room temperature away from direct sunlight.

Basic 60g pack
Basic 60g pack

Buy Kinshobai from Japan

Goods from Japan offers a variety of Japanese foodstuffs and ingredients.

Purchase a range of Japanese food from GoodsFromJapan.

Kinshobai in a pack (Tsukudani Furikake 60g)

Kinshobai shop in a Japanese department store.
Kinshobai shop in a Japanese department store

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Arita ware at a Kinshobai shop.
Arita ware at a Kinshobai shop
Kinshobai main store, Yotsuya, Tokyo.
Kinshobai main store, Yotsuya, Tokyo

© GoodsFromJapan.com